"The winds that wafted roast pig into our culture were strong ones," declared Doreen G. Fernandez, "engraving lechon indelibly in our lives. Lechon kawali, lechon Bocaue, lechon de leche; lechon por kilo; pigs roasted by hand at fiestas, mechanically in cities, in bakery ovens in the U.S.; litsunin stuffed with whatever is customary or desired (tanglad or lemon grass, tamarind leaves, mango leaves, or banana leaves; paella, tausi or salted soy beans, pork and beans even). Then, after the roast, paksiw na lechon."